A few weeks ago, I looked through web pages of six large cosmetic companies to find out whether they had older women in their makeup tutorials online,” Elise Marquam-Jahns, an artist specializing in cosmetics for females older than 40, told me.
“Only one did, and it was extremely brief,” she said. “So information on makeup for women over 40 is needed. The classes I teach that specifically deal with makeup techniques for ‘boomer and beyond’ women also tend to fill up the fastest. That response indicates how much older women appreciate a beauty education that specifically addresses their needs.”
When researching this article, I was astonished to see the shocking absence of women older than 40 from the beauty sector, a business that is so connected to aging. It’s an odd way of thinking to compete for attention from women looking to reduce fine wrinkles and smooth lines but remove them from ads, campaigns, and other media. “Most of us over 40 tend to talk back to our TVs when we see ads for anti-aging products that feature models or celebrities who don’t have a line or wrinkle in sight,” Jahns says.
The truth is that most women aren’t taught how to replace the methods that they were taught in high school with techniques that are better suited to their current state. Nobody talks about how to apply makeup on a face that doesn’t appear full, smooth, and smooth. This is yet another metric in the culture that is so focused on the importance of youth and casting women past 30 as unimportant.
“Andrea Q. Robinson wrote a book called Toss the Gloss,” Jahns told me. “She was an executive in various cosmetic companies and an ex-beauty editor. She thinks there are not many cosmetics that satisfy her strict standards for cosmetics that enhance the texture and color of skin with age. She believes that most men in charge of big beauty companies think that we’ve lost our luster at 50 and have ascended out of their market for makeup.
Don’t Forget About Your Eyebrows
“The positive side is, as we age as we get older, we’ll probably not need to pull our eyebrows out as often. However, it is important to start using a brush to fill in the sparse hairs–especially the “tails.’ I’ve noticed that many women aren’t aware of filling the parts of their eyebrows that aren’t completely,” says Jahns. The Sisley-Paris Phyto-Sourcils ($66) have an easy-to-use applicator and an eyebrow brush on the other side to smooth your eyebrows.
Treat Your Eyelid Area As You Always Have
“Our eyelid area changes, but we can open up our eyes by using lighter, nude shade on the lid and under the arch of the brow. Put a medium to dark tone high enough so that these shadows can be seen above ‘hooded’ eye areas. It also helps to make a backward seven shape at the outer area of the eye to lift the eye. I especially love Laura Geller’s Baked Highlighter Duo ($45)–I use shades French Vanilla and Portofino,” she writes.
Avoid a Drying Lipstick Formula
“I think we’re all influenced by advertising and trends to some extent. Not choosing bright enough lipstick colors with luminosity can be a mistake–the color and shine will flatter your lips and keep them hydrated,” says Jahns. “Matte lipsticks and the nude lip look can age anyone.” To add a splash of color and just enough shine, go for the Dior Addict Stellar Shine Lipstick ($38) in the shade 673 Diorcharm pink coral.
Don’t Give Up on Eyeliner
“Many abandon eyeliner because it’s much complicated to put on in the event that you don’t be able to see as clearly as you did in the past. Eyeliner can add great definition to your eyes,” says Jahns, who suggests using a liner that comes with a brush that smudges (or apply a Q-tip or a smudge to rub the line) to create a softer look. That means you can use the bar you want to make, but it’s not perfect as you would like. “Another alternative is to apply an eyebrow brush angled over the eyeliner pencil and then employ the tool to draw the lines. The brush makes application simpler and gives an attractive, soft appearance. I prefer a darker shade to the top of the lid and a lighter brown applied only to the outside third of the bottom lashline.”
Use a Soft Buffer Brush for Foundation
The application process is as important as the product itself. Jahns recommends using an emollient buffer brush similar to this model available from Itbrushes ($24) and Ulta ($24) for applying the foundation to smooth your skin rather than settling into thin lines. “Lipstick ‘feathering’ or ‘bleeding’ can also be challenging due to small wrinkles around the mouth area. Before putting on lipstick, I recommend using foundation or concealer (with the lips stretched wide when applying) around the mouth area to provide a barrier. Using a lip liner and applying a very light application of powder can also be helpful,” she suggests.
Use Small, Circular Motions to Apply Eye Shadow Evenly
“Opening eyes with a light vanilla shade on the lid and then bringing dark and medium-toned shadows further up the crease can make a world of distinction. I am in love with Clinique’s all about Shadow Quad which comes in Teddy Bear ($30). Make small circular movements with your eyeshadow brush to make sure the shadow covers the lid skin in a uniform manner. A windshield wiper can occasionally miss areas of the lid that have a little crepeiness.”
“I think most of us are loath to invest in eye shadow palettes where we don’t use half or a third of the colors, but It Cosmetics makes several that are all great,” Jahns says. Jahns.
Invest in Cream and Liquid Products
“I recommend cream or liquid foundations and cream blush. Powder can settle in fine lines and emphasize those lines and any crepeiness in our eye areas. It can also look splotchy and uneven,” says Jahns. “For most women, the skin tends to get drier as we mature, so using cream products with more moisture is a plus. They’re also pretty mistake-proof. It’s easy to start with a small dab and gradually build to a soft, light color that is flattering.” Lilah B.’s divine Duo(tm) Lip & Cheek ($46) is a highly pigmented cream-based formulation. The most appealing aspect? It can be applied to cheeks, lips, and eyes.
Consider Different Formulas
Although any product is suitable for application at any age, Certain formulas will help your skin’s appearance as it ages. “Clinique makes some excellent skincare and makeup products that are fragrance-free and allergy-tested,” says Jahns. Beyond Perfecting Foundation + Concealer by Clinique ($34). Beyond Perfecting Foundation + Concealer by Clinique ($34) is a lightweight formula with complete coverage. “Often, as we age, we become more sensitive to product ingredients. Mascaras, eyeliners, and eye shadows can pose problems for more sensitive eyes.”